Glen Etive – July 2016

Step off the beaten path to tackle a charismatic Munro and Corbett on a testing and surprisingly unknown Scottish horseshoe round with Dan Bailey.


by lfto |
Published on

For sheer vertiginous impact the peaks of Glen Coe are hard to beat; and this fact inevitably draws the punters in their hundreds. But you don’t have to go far before the crowds thin out dramatically; a quick escape into neighbouring Glen Etive will do. While Etive lacks nothing in grandeur of its own, it retains the feel of a remote backwater. In contrast to the close-packed confines of Glen Coe there’s a wider, wilder feel here, and the promise of big days on big hills that see a fraction of the footfall.

Glen Etive
©LFTO

Rising in a complex tangle above the forestry of the lower glen, the Munro and Corbett pairing of Sgor na h Ulaidh and Beinn Maol Chaluim are typical Etive, bursting with rugged charisma and yet unaccountably deserted. Tackled together they make a long, logical horseshoe: a challenging round spiced with hints of scrambling.

Glen Etive
©LFTO

How hard is climbing Glen Etive?

DIFFICULTY: | DISTANCE: 14.9km (9 1/4 miles) | TIME: 8 hours | TOTAL ASCENT: 1593m

FITNESS:

TERRAIN: Forest track, a steep and pathless ascent; descent from Beinn Maol Chaluim needs attentive routefinding and careful footing; climb over Stob an Fhuarain to Sgor na h-Ulaidh is rough, and hands-on in one or two spots; return over Meall a’ Bhuiridh is path-free.

NAVIGATION:

Glen Etive
©LFTO

Where is the start of the walk?

The nearest town is Fort William. Start and finish the walk at the car park off Glen Etive road.

What's the best map for Glen Etive?

  • CLICK HERE to view and download our digital route guide in OS Maps

  • OS Landranger (1:50,000) 41

  • OS Explorer (1:25,000) 384

  • Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Ben Nevis & Glen Coe

  • Harvey Superwalker XT25 (1:25,000) Glen Coe

Glen Etive | Step-by-step route guide

Glen Etive
©LFTO
  1. From the car park on the east bank of the Allt Charnan, pass a ‘you are here’ map signpost and duck into the woods. Following the course of the burn at a slight remove, a decent forest track heads uphill through the dense pines to emerge, after roughly 2km, in the open glen. Dead ahead is the steep outline of Beinn Maol Chaluim – and it’s obvious from here why the descent from this peak needs care (see stage 3).

  2. Near a prominent boulder quit the path and head roughly north-east to slog up the grassy lower slopes of the mountain. Beinn Maol Chaluim takes  the form of a single long ridge crest, like the hull of an upturned boat, with the high point at the far end. Pass over the broad south-east top and continue along the ridge on an easy but spectacular stride to the summit. With the bulk of Bidean nam Bian looming to one side and the less-frequented peaks of Sgor na h-Ulaidh and Stob an Fhuarain to the other, the views are impressive.

  3. Cliffs preclude a direct descent west, so first head north for roughly 1km, descending steep, rocky ground to reach the bealach below Bidean nam Bian. To outflank the crags below to your left, continue north along the bealach until it’s possible to drop left on grass between the rocks (good visibility helps). Once below the cliffs double back on yourself, traversing carefully south across a steep grassy slope to the narrow notch of the Bealach Fhionnghaill.

  4. Here cut west, climbing onto the east ridge of Stob an Fhuarain. Two lines of crags cut across the lower ridge. Though it’s avoidable, the first can be scrambled up directly at a cautious Grade 1 – if in doubt a line of metal fence posts shows the way. It is best to outflank the bulk of the second crag to its left via a grassy path, though even this dodge needs a little care. Above these obstacles the upper ridge gives easier going, in a spectacular position above the north-east corrie. From the summit follow a betterdefined trail down the ridge to the col below Sgurr na h-Ulaidh. The path now zigzags steeply up the rocky north-east flank to reach the summit cairn perched on the edge of the Munro’s dramatic northern cliffs.

  5. Retrace your steps briefly along the summit ridge, then bear slightly right to pick up the south-east ridge. This gives a fairly steep descent with rough ground and one or two brief scrambly moments. Any notable rock steps can be outflanked, and if the path is not easily spotted a line of old fence posts serves as a guide. From the base of the ridge cross a broad col, then make a long, gentle ascent through rocky knolls to reach the summit cairn of Meall a’ Bhuiridh. There is no path as such, so navigation needs to be sharp if it’s misty.

  6. Though this minor summit is not high enough to qualify for Corbett status it has a satisfyingly little-visited feel, and almost unrivalled views over Glen Etive to the peaked profiles of Ben Starav and Ben Cruachan. To descend go roughly south. From a broad rocky shoulder at about the 600m contour bear slightly left down towards the forest edge. Just above the treeline cut hard left on a faint path contouring across a steep grassy slope, then at a right-angled corner in the wood go due east down to the track of stage 1 at the entrance to the wood.

What walking gear do I need for this route?

Here's a selection of the best walking gear selected by LFTO's testing team: Walking boots | Hiking daypack | Waterproof jacket | Walking trousers | Walking poles | Walking mid-layers | Base layers

Where can I eat and drink?

Best pub is Clachaig Inn (01855) 811252; Kings House Hotel (01855) 851259.

Where's the best place to stay?

Glen Coe SYHA Hostel (01855) 811219.

About the author

This route originally appeared in the ****** issue of Trail magazine. CLICK HERE to become a Trail magazine subscriber and get 50% off a whole year of digital OS Maps

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