The Black Cuillin on the Isle of Skye is one of those places you just have to go and experience. It absolutely deserves its reputation as one of Britain’s best mountain environments simply for the sheer drama of the place, and Sgurr Dearg is a great introduction to the area.
If Munro-bagging is your thing, then you’ll already know that summiting the iconic rock fin of the Inaccessible Pinnacle (the mountain's true high point, pictured above) involves a roped rock climb and an abseil for anyone who wants to survive the experience.
If you aren’t after the full climb but still fancy having a look, maybe for another day or just for the sake of curiosity, and are up for some scrambly fun along the way, then an ascent of the western ridge is an adventurous undertaking and sets the scene for future encounters.
The upper section of the route has some seriously exposed ridge scrambling but it is largely avoidable, if you aren’t feeling it. Even without the scary stuff, it’s still a full-on route and you will definitely be getting some hands-on action. It also works well if you are short on time or have a narrow weather window and just want to get a quick hill day in without the full Cuillin experience.
How hard is climbing Sgurr Dearg?
DIFFICULTY: Hard | DISTANCE: 8km | TIME: 6 hours | TOTAL ASCENT: 980m
FITNESS: This is a physically demanding route. Lots of ascent straight from the car to the summit.
TERRAIN: At it’s most extreme, very exposed scrambly terrain with serious consequences from a fall.
NAVIGATION: Route finding can be very difficult. There are no solid paths after a certain height and you will need a good eye to stay on route. Not for beginners.
Where is the start of the walk?
The walk starts at Glen Brittle Memorial Hut which has a small car park opposite. Midweek and early is the best time to arrive. The nearest bus stop is 7.5 miles away.
What's the best map for climbing Sgurr Dearg on Skye?
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CLICK HERE to view and download our digital route guide in OS Maps
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OS Explorer 411 (1:25k)
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OS Landranger 32 (1:50k)
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Harvey Superwalker XT25 Black Cuillin (1:25k)
Sgurr Dearg | Step-by-step route guide
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Park in the small car park opposite the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, which fills up early on sunny weekends. A track leads from the south-eastern corner of the car park. Follow it onto the hillside, through some gorse and across the bridge. Peek into the gorge of Eas Mor as you walk around its rim and keep right at the split immediately after it. You soon reach a second split where you fork left to leave the main path and join a more narrow track.
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Start to climb uphill in a easterly direction. The angle steepens and the ground becomes rocky and very loose, with multiple tracks splitting and rejoining, leading you to a slabby section with a noticeable gully. This is the start of the scrambling proper. It is possible to go straight up the gully but if there are other people around, I would consider sticking to the left-hand side and scrambling up alongside it. This first scrambly section passes quickly and breaks back into a steep walk, eventually leading to a broader grassy area of ridge, near the Window Buttress.
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As you continue, you approach an intimidating and impassable-looking mound of rock but the track leads you rightward to a stepped blocky buttress where a scramble, initially to the right but then left, leads you up to the 929m spot-height. It can be easy to stray into awkward ground here. The scrambling should never be desperate or above Grade 1. Look out for the telltale crampon scratches and polish on the rocks. When you reach the level ground, have a good look back to make a mental note of the descent spot as it could be tricky to identify on the return. A narrow and exposed ridge separates you from the summit of Sgurr Dearg.
A track picks its way on the righthand side of the steepest ground. It is possible to keep on the crest of the ridge for much of the route but be warned – the grade increases, it is very steep, exposed and a fall would come with a very bad ending. Unless you are an experienced and competent scrambler, I would suggest you stick to the path. A rope would not be overkill for the exposed ridge and a helmet should be the bare minimum! The rock is extremely grippy for all of the scrambling on the route but there is loose material to be wary of, as well as other people. This short but lively section leads to the summit of Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle.
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The true summit of the mountain is actually the top of the pinnacle, hence why many of the baggers will pay a guide to get them up and down safely. Describing the climb is out of the remit of this account, short of saying it is a proper rock climb with an abseil descent and is a serious undertaking. There is a descent through Coire na Banachdich but it is very steep and easy to stray into desperate terrain where a slip would be disastrous. Instead, it is safer to retrace your steps. Definitely keep to the path on the left (as you descend) off the sharp ridge section between the summit and the 929m spot-height.
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A ‘notch’ on the left should lead you down through the scrambly section, retracing your steps from earlier, back to the track, where a less stressful walk will lead you downwards past the top of the Window Buttress area and back to the first slabby scrambling section. Be very cautious of the steep ground on your right-hand side as you pick your way down, taking care when you get onto the loose stone. Once through this final tough section, you can cruise back to the car.
What walking gear do I need for this route?
If you're doing the Inaccessible Pinnacle, you'll need ropes, a harness, a light rack and possibly the cash to hire a guide if you don't know what you're doing. If you're simply going up to have a wee mosey about, you'll need proper hiking stuff. Here's a selection of the best walking gear selected by LFTO's testing team: Walking boots | Hiking daypack | Waterproof jacket | Walking trousers | Walking poles | Walking mid-layers | Base layers
Where can I eat and drink?
Glenbrittle Campsite has the Cuillin Coffee Café serving hot food from April to October 12-4pm – opening times may vary.
Where's the best place to stay?
Either book a night in Glenbrittle Youth Hostel or stay at the campsite near the beach. There are plenty of places to park up, too.
About the author
Jamie is a qualified Mountain Leader with a passion for helping people explore Britain's hills and mountains. He's been writing articles and route guides for Trail magazine and LFTO for years and is also one of our go-to experts for navigation tips and advice.
This route originally appeared in the October 2024 issue of Trail magazine. CLICK HERE to become a Trail magazine subscriber and get 50% off a whole year of digital OS Maps.